Friday, February 24, 2012

North Seymour and Cormorant Departure , Santa Cruz & Farewell

Oh what a sad morning this is and for more than a few reasons, first of all really sad because I need to get up at 5 am to be ready to do our last hike with our guide Paulina, though I was dreading to get out of bed I just did it. We arrived at N Seymour early AM and were off the catamaran ant exactly 6 am we all stumbled off the dingy and off on our trek we went but this one had a different twist. As we moseyed down the trail half a sleep we walked by a sea lion that was a little grumpy to, he was just waking up from his nights sleep to and he also had his female and baby with him, he started to let out a sea lion grunt ark ark ark ark ark and Paulina said oh we have a grumpy one this morning, grumpy?? Well what was about to happen was  classic example of animals gone wild! Mike and I moved swiftly when we heard this guy grunting but when the last few of our group walked by this sea lion decided to start running after them.Our guide immediately took her backpack off and started to use this as a swatting mechanism though she never touched him with it she was just trying to show him who is boss, well he had non of that he took off again and went after Rosie and he wanted a piece of her but one of our alpha male humans ran to her rescue and told that sea lion to get back and he did!!! Though this was and could have turned into a very dangerous situation it was funny as hell especially watching all of us running in this video.

Turn up your speakers!!
Sunrise at N Seymour
SUNRISE N SeYMOR
early morning hike

EARLY MORNING HIKE N SAYMOUR
the attacker!!!
BABY AND ALPHA MALE N SAYMOUR
the basking blonde's
BASKING BLONDE SEALS N SAYMOUR
blue footed boobie

FOOTED BOOBIE N SAYMOUR
land iguana
LAND IGUANA
What a way to start the morning and end the journey on the catamaran.Once we arrived back on the catamaran the crew had our breakfast ready, immediately after that we were off to Santa Cruz highlands to check in to the Royal Palm Resort. As we approached the front desk you could feel the serenity in the air. Now it was time to rest and chill which was much needed after this very active 8 days we had on the catamaran.
ROYAL PAM ROOM


Our welcome committee was waiting for us on a rock, a short eared owl, he was so calm and so bright, just sitting there waiting to be photographed.

OWL AT ROYAL PALM


Our few days at Royal Palm gave us time to relax and just take it all in.
Our following day we woke up and explored the Royal Palm property, there were lava tunnels down the hill from the hotel that Mike and I took a bike ride to check them out. They were dark,slippery and wet looked like Sméagol from Lord of the Rings was going to come out from behind a rock."My Precious"
WALKING TO THE LAVA TUBE SANTA CRUZ MIKE LAVA TUBE MIKE GOING IN TO LAVA TUBEMIKE IN LAVA TUBE


walking back to the hotel after the lava tube hike, that is Royal Palm Resort in the background.
HIKING BACK TO ROYAL PALM


On this evening we all road to the town of Puerto Ayora and watched the Super Bowl at a restaurant called the Rock , it was the only place in this town that had the Super Bowl televised and what a game,  it was in Spanish to !
superbowl gang maril

On the following day Mike and I went to visit the Darwin Research Center the home of Lonesome George the last known individual of the Pinta Island tortoise. He has been labeled the rarest creature in the world, and he is a potent symbol for conservation efforts in the Galapagos and conservation efforts internationally. George is estimated to be over 100 years old. Attempts at mating Lonesome George have been unsuccessful for several decades, possibly due to the lack of any females of his own subspecies.
LONESOME GEORGELONESOME GEORGE 2LONESOME GEORGE VERBAGEMIKE DARWIN STATUE


In the inhabited Islands like Santa Cruz  you can explore freely just about anywhere so we walked the town of Puerto Ayora and found some local fishermen with their catch of the day, take a look at the picture with the fishermen usually it is a pelican waiting for scraps here it is sea lions!!! What a trip!
SANTA CRUZ SEALION WAITING FOR  FISH


After the stroll in town we took a water taxi to Finch Bay Hotel to have lunch and a kayak Las Grietas ,Finch Bay is a fairly new Eco Lodge and the only hotel located on the beach. We lounged by the pool and had a little snack then took off on the kayak around Academy Bay to Las Grietas translated, “grieta” means crevasse or crack. Las Grietas is a place to swim in ocean water between two tall cliffs, where the earth has opened like a “crack” or “crevasse”.Local people may often be seen jumping from various levels of the cliff

These photos are of Finch Bay and our kayak to  Las Grietas, ME ARRIVING AT FINCH BAY
crabs on rock during kayak kyaking the gullys around acadamey baykyaking gullys around acadamey bay

It has arrived today is our last day in the Galapagos Islands and we were not going to waste a  minute of it, in fact I don’t think we wasted a minute of any day, this adventure vacation was an active one, and how do you spend the last day?? Walking  on a paved path to  Tortuga Bay to go to the beach, the walking path is 1.55 miles long but then the rest of the way down the beach to the end is a long way, the walk takes approx. 1 hour each way. We had to  sign in and out at the start of the path with the Galapagos Parks service office, they like to have your information before you enter the area to keep a record of who enters . Tortuga Bay has a gigantic, perfectly preserved beach that is forbidden to swimmers and is preserved for the wildlife where many Iguanas, crabs and birds, and even though they do not allow swimming here the local surfers were taking advantage of the nice waves that were rolling in, it was a sweet beach break. There is a separate cove where you can swim, kayak or paddle board if you can find one, this area is located at the very end of the beach.
walking to tortuga beach maril
we are almost there, you can see the sea all the way in the back …..
almost to the beach tortuga mari
mike in waves tortuga beach


After frolicking in the sea and sun we headed back to our hotel to get cleaned up for our dinner at Anger Meyer Point …
anger meyer point restraunt


On this morning of Feb 8 we had to rise and shine to head back to Baltra and make our connection to Quito. Once we arrived Quito we all checked into the Radisson Hotel which was nice but not as nice as the JW Marriott we stayed at the beginning of the trip. This evening all of us had our farewell dinner together at Za Zu restaurant which was a Peruvian style menu and it was one of the best if not the best food we had during our trip.
gang at zazu quito mari

The Galapagos was full of surprises and  escaping from everyday life and winding down is so easy to do in the Galapagos Islands. Actually, it's nearly impossible not to forget about the rest of the world, I sure did.

When you  arrive in Galapagos, you have stepped back in time to a place where the earth is almost untouched by humans and is ruled by animals. We entered a dream in which we  swam with penguins, sea lion,sharks, iguanas,and  sea turtles. It was like you had  gone to another planet, where the terrain is arid and you tip toe past alien-like iguanas basking on the rocks sea lions resting on the beach and birds basking in the sun or keeping busy building their nest.But in reality, about 200,000 people visit the islands each year, and five of the islands are inhabited by about 30,000 people. There are about 85 other boats, ranging in size, touring the Galapagos at any given time.
It's still amazing to see purity of the islands so well maintained.
I was so impresses on the lack of litter and other damage from human traffic.
Nearly all the islands (97% of the area) are protected by the Ecuadorian government  and the enforced strict rules. Rules of the islands are emphatically communicated, and must be strictly followed. Do not touch or disturb any plant, rock or animal. Don't feed the animals. Remain on the path.Disable your flash on the camera. Do not startle or chase any animal. Do not force your way through dense brush. Do not litter. Do not write graffiti.These are all things for all us us to learn from to protect our own environment. My hopes are that these rules and regulation remain because the  Galapagos are a truly  special place. I am sure there is a total other side to what we saw because we were there as tourist, but as an avid piscator  like my husband and I we never felt like we were missing out on wetting a line. In fact I would hope they keep fishing under control and very limited to all. There should be one place in the world that animals don’t get hunted or harassed and stays somewhat pristine with no plastic, mono filament lines, ropes etc… so that generations to come can enjoy what we did.
I love you Galapagos and thank you for the gift you gave me that will forever stay in my heart!

Wednesday, February 22, 2012

The Enchanted Genovesa

 
We have finally arrived to my long awaited Island of Genovesa or also know as Tower Island, we anchored in Darwin Bay which was crater that collapsed below sea level so we were basically in the caldera of this volcano that was partially submerged under water. This Island is shaped like a horseshoe and we were right in the middle of it.

Off to our exploration in the dingy we went by the cliffs on our way to Prince Philips steps, on our way there we spotted tropical sea birds flying around us and a sea lion suckling from his momma.

TROPICAL BIRD IN GENOVESA CLOSE UPTROPICAL BIRD IN GENOVESA
SUCKLING SEALION GENOVESA 2

Prince Philips Steps is an extraordinary steep path that leads through a sea bird colony that is full of life, due to the conservation concerns these steps even though are an official visiting area they are limited to only small groups of 16 or less so we are so fortunate to have been able to go to this area, the steps were steep and we climed about  82 ft.  to the top but what a site to see when you get up there. First of all I spent most of the week trying to get pictures of birds on rocks or from the dingy etc.… thinking I would not see those birds again or that close WRONG!!!! Once we arrived to the top they were everywhere and what I mean by that was they were even walking on the path with us , Blue footed boobie, Red footed boobie,Nazca boobies, Frigates, Swallow tailed gulls, Galapagos mocking birds just to name a few.

this is Prince Philips steps....
GOING UP PRINCE PHILIPS STEPS
After marveling the view we had the opportunity to  trek through the Palo Santo vegetation and there were birds everywhere nesting in the trees on the ground , birds laying on their eggs and the Great Frigates nesting in the trees. This Island gave us the opportunity to see the the Great Frigates distending their striking red gular sac when the females would fly above or around them. What a site to see I was fascinated by these birds they are so bright and beautiful, I have never been this close to a frigate. On the ground were the blue footed boobies nesting and the elegant Nazca boobies taking so much pride in keeping their eggs warm and protecting their nest.

Great Frigate
FRIGATE IN TREES GENOVESARED FOOTED BOBBIE

Nazca Boobies
NAZCA LOVE
NAZCA WITH EGGS BY TREE

But my favorite little bird was the puff headed baby Red Footed Boobies that were perched up on their nest and the have a doppelganger yes doppelganger…………..right when I saw these babies in the trees I immediately gave them a new species name " Larry Tate" as in Be Witch the popular TV show back in the day. Don’t you think they have a resemblance!

baby boobie…
BABY BOOBIE AKA LARRY TATE
the doppelganger……Larry Tate ....
bewtich larry tate
As we continued down the path we arrived to a rocky point where there were storm petrels flying, they breed here by the thousands and also feed during the day which is the only place in the world they do this unlike other petrels spiecies, these feed in the day and to avoid predators the only go to their nest holes at night.

storm petrels

One of their major predators is the short eared owl that we were searching for during this trek and we were having no luck finding it but shortly after our viewing of the petrels we saw another guide with is group on the way back from their trek and our guide asked the other guide if they by any chance had seen the short eared owl any where and he said yes it was sitting right there behind you in that bush, we were like WHAT!!!! and there he was, that was a very emotional time for me it was the last day on the Catamaran the last day with our guide and crew and I was able to see what I came to see on this Island which was this beautiful owl, I just sat there teary eyed as it all started to come to a close, at least for this part of the trip.

SHORT EARED OWL GENOVESA


This afternoon took us to Darwin beach which was on the other side of the cove of Darwin Bay. Our guide told us it was a beach stop and a quick stroll through a beach trail and go for a swim, as we strolled down the trail we saw more red footed boobies in the trees nesting, playful frigates that were fun to just sit there and watch them play just steps away from us, also in this area we saw baby tropical birds and Galapagos herons …….


Red footed boobie
RED BOOBIE IN TREES DARWIN BEACH
Galapagos heron
heron head shot darwin beach
Galapagos heron
HERON CLOSE UP DARWIN BEACH
frigates playing
FRIGATES PLAYING ON DARWIN BEACH  BEACH
MAGNIFICANT FRIGATE AT DARWIN BEACH

then the unthinkable happened, I looked ahead of the trail and saw a pool of blood and immediately said something to the guide that it looked like something was killed or hurt and she approached the area and said , no it’s a baby seal lion being born , my eyes got huge and the emotions started to flow, you don’t know what to do , think ,say ???? I was not expecting to sea a baby sea lion born in the wild today but why not we have seen every thing else why not a birth? This baby  chose a great day to be born, this day was my husband birthday so my friend Holly called the baby sea lion baby McCorkle. Though it was an amazing site to see it was still pretty gross and yucky as there was a baby sea lion and it’s mother sitting in a pool of  blood, I was not sure what feeling to have I was confused and honored at the same time.We gave the mother her space and just quietly viewed the situation for a while then we proceeded to move a long with our walk and give her some space,we  then came back to observe them some more and from the time we left her to the time we came back which was approximately maybe  10 min she expelled her placenta “after birth” ewewewewe  I wanted to barf but again at the same time I was mesmerized that I was witnessing this! Along came mother nature to take care of business , the birds showed up and started to eat the placenta and clean the place up. The baby made loud goat type noises as he  tried to find his mommies teet and was not successful this time. We stayed and viewed this miracle for a little while and then gave them back their space even though the mother sea lion nor the baby seemed bothered at all about  us being there, actually I was hoping to see her pick that baby up by the neck and take him to the sea because at some point that day she would be doing that since it is part of the process.
Here are a few pictures and videos of this incredible moment.

Female sea lion with baby
BABY SEALION JUST BORN GENOVESA DARWIN BEACH
new born sea lion
NEW BOARN FACE CLOSE UP GENOVESA
new born sea lion  with mother
NEW BORN WITH MOTHER GENOVESA
we are family
new born giving momy love


MOM AND NEW BORN 3
ravenous gulls

BIRDS WITH PLACENTA 2 GENOVESA
Just born baby sea lion and his mommie

This was the highlight of my journey definitely  the one thing I  never even thought I  would see in the wild , the Galapagos are a very magical place and at any given time or moment ANYTHING  can happen. On our walk back to the beach we saw more babies that were more than minutes old but like weeks and they were making them self at home at their beach in Darwin Bay plus a family of sea lions sun bathing, the Alpha, a female and a baby.

BABY AT DARWIN BEACH  GENOVESA
ALPHA MALE MOMA AND BABY DARWIN BEACH

Back to the boat this evening with more festivities, it is Mikes birthday !!! When we went back to our room to get ready for dinner the crew had decorated our room full of balloons and streamers for Mikes birthday they even made a cake out of towels.  We had a great dinner that evening and for dessert was a tasty cake the chef baked while we are all off doing our excursions all day. They sang the happy birthday song with a Latin accent that  made me feel right at home and Mike to since he has heard this version many times at my family functions. Then the cake came out with sparkler type candles that started to burn the ceiling of the well appointed catamaran but it did not phase them at all, I was looking around for the fire extinguisher just in case, then Trixie the” house keeping” came out with an explosions that scared the bejesus out of us, when it exploded it was loud!!!! and full of confetti, while all this was going on the chef came out with an axe to cut the cake of course not a knife that is to normal but yes you read right an axe, these people are original. Each and everyone of the crew congratulated Mike. We proceeded to have our evening cocktails and get ready to cross the Equator again, this would be the second time we crossed the Equator the first was from Tagus Cove to Punta Argas, but this one was special it was on Mikes birthday, the boys stayed up playing cards on the deck until it was time to go to the bridge to check out the electronics click over to the 0.00.000 , check out all of the zeros in the pic  and the date was Feb 3 2012 Mike b-day, I am sure he will never forget this b-day!!
MIKES BIRTHDAY DECORATIONSMIKE CUTTING HI CAKE WITH AXEequator crossing
Our last night on the catamaran .....blah :(