The Enchanted Genovesa

 
We have finally arrived to my long awaited Island of Genovesa or also know as Tower Island, we anchored in Darwin Bay which was crater that collapsed below sea level so we were basically in the caldera of this volcano that was partially submerged under water. This Island is shaped like a horseshoe and we were right in the middle of it.

Off to our exploration in the dingy we went by the cliffs on our way to Prince Philips steps, on our way there we spotted tropical sea birds flying around us and a sea lion suckling from his momma.




Prince Philips Steps is an extraordinary steep path that leads through a sea bird colony that is full of life, due to the conservation concerns these steps even though are an official visiting area they are limited to only small groups of 16 or less so we are so fortunate to have been able to go to this area, the steps were steep and we climed about  82 ft.  to the top but what a site to see when you get up there. First of all I spent most of the week trying to get pictures of birds on rocks or from the dingy etc.… thinking I would not see those birds again or that close WRONG!!!! Once we arrived to the top they were everywhere and what I mean by that was they were even walking on the path with us , Blue footed boobie, Red footed boobie,Nazca boobies, Frigates, Swallow tailed gulls, Galapagos mocking birds just to name a few.

this is Prince Philips steps....

After marveling the view we had the opportunity to  trek through the Palo Santo vegetation and there were birds everywhere nesting in the trees on the ground , birds laying on their eggs and the Great Frigates nesting in the trees. This Island gave us the opportunity to see the the Great Frigates distending their striking red gular sac when the females would fly above or around them. What a site to see I was fascinated by these birds they are so bright and beautiful, I have never been this close to a frigate. On the ground were the blue footed boobies nesting and the elegant Nazca boobies taking so much pride in keeping their eggs warm and protecting their nest.

Great Frigate


Nazca Boobies



But my favorite little bird was the puff headed baby Red Footed Boobies that were perched up on their nest and the have a doppelganger yes doppelganger…………..right when I saw these babies in the trees I immediately gave them a new species name " Larry Tate" as in Be Witch the popular TV show back in the day. Don’t you think they have a resemblance!

baby boobie…

the doppelganger……Larry Tate ....

As we continued down the path we arrived to a rocky point where there were storm petrels flying, they breed here by the thousands and also feed during the day which is the only place in the world they do this unlike other petrels spiecies, these feed in the day and to avoid predators the only go to their nest holes at night.



One of their major predators is the short eared owl that we were searching for during this trek and we were having no luck finding it but shortly after our viewing of the petrels we saw another guide with is group on the way back from their trek and our guide asked the other guide if they by any chance had seen the short eared owl any where and he said yes it was sitting right there behind you in that bush, we were like WHAT!!!! and there he was, that was a very emotional time for me it was the last day on the Catamaran the last day with our guide and crew and I was able to see what I came to see on this Island which was this beautiful owl, I just sat there teary eyed as it all started to come to a close, at least for this part of the trip.




This afternoon took us to Darwin beach which was on the other side of the cove of Darwin Bay. Our guide told us it was a beach stop and a quick stroll through a beach trail and go for a swim, as we strolled down the trail we saw more red footed boobies in the trees nesting, playful frigates that were fun to just sit there and watch them play just steps away from us, also in this area we saw baby tropical birds and Galapagos herons …….


Red footed boobie

Galapagos heron

Galapagos heron

frigates playing



then the unthinkable happened, I looked ahead of the trail and saw a pool of blood and immediately said something to the guide that it looked like something was killed or hurt and she approached the area and said , no it’s a baby seal lion being born , my eyes got huge and the emotions started to flow, you don’t know what to do , think ,say ???? I was not expecting to sea a baby sea lion born in the wild today but why not we have seen every thing else why not a birth? This baby  chose a great day to be born, this day was my husband birthday so my friend Holly called the baby sea lion baby McCorkle. Though it was an amazing site to see it was still pretty gross and yucky as there was a baby sea lion and it’s mother sitting in a pool of  blood, I was not sure what feeling to have I was confused and honored at the same time.We gave the mother her space and just quietly viewed the situation for a while then we proceeded to move a long with our walk and give her some space,we  then came back to observe them some more and from the time we left her to the time we came back which was approximately maybe  10 min she expelled her placenta “after birth” ewewewewe  I wanted to barf but again at the same time I was mesmerized that I was witnessing this! Along came mother nature to take care of business , the birds showed up and started to eat the placenta and clean the place up. The baby made loud goat type noises as he  tried to find his mommies teet and was not successful this time. We stayed and viewed this miracle for a little while and then gave them back their space even though the mother sea lion nor the baby seemed bothered at all about  us being there, actually I was hoping to see her pick that baby up by the neck and take him to the sea because at some point that day she would be doing that since it is part of the process.
Here are a few pictures and videos of this incredible moment.

Female sea lion with baby

new born sea lion

new born sea lion  with mother

we are family




ravenous gulls

Just born baby sea lion and his mommie

This was the highlight of my journey definitely  the one thing I  never even thought I  would see in the wild , the Galapagos are a very magical place and at any given time or moment ANYTHING  can happen. On our walk back to the beach we saw more babies that were more than minutes old but like weeks and they were making them self at home at their beach in Darwin Bay plus a family of sea lions sun bathing, the Alpha, a female and a baby.




Back to the boat this evening with more festivities, it is Mikes birthday !!! When we went back to our room to get ready for dinner the crew had decorated our room full of balloons and streamers for Mikes birthday they even made a cake out of towels.  We had a great dinner that evening and for dessert was a tasty cake the chef baked while we are all off doing our excursions all day. They sang the happy birthday song with a Latin accent that  made me feel right at home and Mike to since he has heard this version many times at my family functions. Then the cake came out with sparkler type candles that started to burn the ceiling of the well appointed catamaran but it did not phase them at all, I was looking around for the fire extinguisher just in case, then Trixie the” house keeping” came out with an explosions that scared the bejesus out of us, when it exploded it was loud!!!! and full of confetti, while all this was going on the chef came out with an axe to cut the cake of course not a knife that is to normal but yes you read right an axe, these people are original. Each and everyone of the crew congratulated Mike. We proceeded to have our evening cocktails and get ready to cross the Equator again, this would be the second time we crossed the Equator the first was from Tagus Cove to Punta Argas, but this one was special it was on Mikes birthday, the boys stayed up playing cards on the deck until it was time to go to the bridge to check out the electronics click over to the 0.00.000 , check out all of the zeros in the pic  and the date was Feb 3 2012 Mike b-day, I am sure he will never forget this b-day!!

Our last night on the catamaran .....blah :(